. By and by we
quitted the wood, and having descended a deep ravine, we climbed a
barren moor, over which we had proceeded half way, when to my
unutterable joy, we discovered the far-off fane of Rievaulx, whose wan
towers just peered from out of the hanging woods. Pursuing our way we
soon exchanged the trackless moor for a much more grateful domain. A
sloping wood on each side of us opened into a wider expanse, and the
turrets of Byland abbey appeared in the distance. At this moment we
forgot the toil of threading harassing woods and crossing wide heaths.
After refreshing ourselves we proceeded to view the ruin.

Byland abbey was founded in 1177, by the famous Roger de Mowbray, who
amply endowed it, and was buried here. He retired hither after being
perplexed and fatigued with useless crusades, and suffering the
deprivation of nearly all his property by Henry II. Martin Stapylton,
Esq. the present proprietor of Byland, discovered from some ancient
manuscripts the precise situation in the ruin, where were deposited the
bones of the illustrious chieftain; and after removing these relics of
mortality which had been hid for six hundred years, he conveyed them in
his carriage to Myton, and interred them in the church-yard. The abbey
of Byland is memorable for having given concealment, (though not a
sanctuary!) to Edward II. who, when flying from his enemies in the
north, in 1322, took shelter here, and was surprised by them when at
dinner, narrowly escaping, by the swiftness of his horse, to York; and
leaving his money, plate, and privy seal, a booty to the savage and
exterminating Scots. Byland abbey has nearly disappeared; the only
perfect remains are the west end, a fine specimen of Saxon and Gothic,
and a small portion of the choir. The church, its transepts, north and
south aisles, and chancel, are gone; and the dormitory, refectory,
cloisters, &c. have scarcely left any trace of their gorgeous existence.
The lonely ash and sturdy briar vegetate over the ashes of barons and
prelates; and the unfeeling peasants intrude their rustic games on the
holy place, ignorant of its former importance, and unconscious of the
poetical feeling which its remains inspire. We quitted its interior to
inspect a gateway situated at a considerable distance from the principal
ruin, through which the abbey appears to great advantage about four
hundred yards beyond this arch.

[5] For an interesting account of the founding and a view of