rangements having been made in advance for
our party, we had time to take in the novel sights leisurely. The party
had been divided into two sections; one section booked for the famous
Shepheard's Hotel, the other section for the Hotel Grand Continental.
The avenues through which we were driven on the way to the Hotel were
bordered with large shade trees. The streets were full of life. The
buildings were modern, seemingly of French style, with a mixture of
Oriental architecture.

[Illustration: I. THE SAND HAD BEEN SHOVELED AWAY FROM THE SPHINX.]

[Illustration: II. THE GRANITE TEMPLE. REMAINS EMBEDDED.]

"What a contrast," said one, thinking aloud of the city we had left but
two days ago, as our carriage glided smoothly over the well paved
highways. "Did two cities ever present a stronger contrast than
Jerusalem, with streets narrow, rough, filthy, and depressing to the
spirits, and Cairo, with avenues broad, smooth, clean, and pleasing to
the senses? The interest in the city of Jerusalem had to be stirred by
the memorials of the sacred events of the past; the discomforts of the
present had to be overlooked. The city of Cairo appeals to us at once as
a pleasure ground with attractions on all sides, and the promise of
comfortable surroundings."

The hotels of Cairo are famous throughout the world for the magnificence
of their appointments, the cosmopolitan character of their guests, and
the novelty of the sights that may be seen at their doors. When we drove
up to the Hotel Grand Continental, a military band was giving an
afternoon concert in the beautiful Esbekieh Gardens opposite the hotel.
On the wide pavement in front of the piazza of the hotel, dragomen in
elaborate Arabic costumes were offering their services as guides or
interpreters. "Want a guide? want a guide?" they inquired of all
strangers who they thought might need such service. Arab urchins, whose
hands may have once been clean, offered picture postal cards for sale;
bootblacks solicited patronage and beggars asked for alms; match
peddlers endeavored to dispose of their little boxes; flower sellers
thrust their bouquets forward into notice; dealers in scarabs and
miniature mummy cases proclaimed the virtues of their charms; and
venders of beads offered endless varieties of their fanciful, colored
Egyptian wares. Interest in the scene was heightened by the variety of
the characteristic flowing gowns peculiar to the natives of Egypt. On
the piazza, grou