as smooth as a river. The "Captain's
Dinner," which had been postponed from the previous day on account of
the weather, was announced for the evening, and the dining room was
handsomely decorated with flags, garlands of artificial roses, and
additional lights for the special occasion. The depression of Monday was
forgotten and the tourists were in a happy humor.

[Illustration: FILLED VIALS WITH WATER FROM THE DEAD SEA.]

At the dinner the Captain made a neat speech referring to the pleasant
relations during the voyage and the separation which was shortly to take
place. The judge, in behalf of the passengers, responded in a jovial
vein. "Three cheers for the Captain" were given with enthusiasm,
followed by "He's a jolly good fellow," heartily sung. Every one arose
as the orchestra played "America," and later, when the stars and
stripes were dropped from overhead, all rose again to accompany the
orchestra in the "Star Spangled Banner." Then the electric lights were
turned out and while we sat in darkness, the stewards and waiters,
dressed in fantastic costumes of various nations, entered and in a long
procession marched around the room, each waiter carrying aloft an
illuminated tower of ice-cream, and each steward a dish of bonbons. When
the bonbons, containing whistles and fancy caps, were opened, the
dignity of judge, professor, and minister was laid aside and the
tourists were a joyous, noisy crowd of children.

While we were at dinner the promenade deck was cleared of chairs,
decorated with flags, and illuminated with Chinese lanterns in
preparation for a masked ball which was to be the crowning and closing
event of the day. In this fancy-dress carnival many of the passengers
appeared dressed in fantastic gowns prepared during the day, or as
Orientals in costumes that had been purchased in Eastern cities.

While the maskers and onlookers were enjoying the music and sport, the
Moltke was steaming northward through the Strait of Messina. On the
right shone the lighthouses of Italy and the lights of the Italian town
of Reggio; on the left gleamed the flash-lights of Sicily and long rows
of twinkles revealed the location of the large city of Messina.

On rising Wednesday morning we found the sea perfectly smooth with
scarcely a ripple to disturb its blue surface. The Moltke was speeding
through the waters with an almost imperceptible motion. On our left was
the island of Capri, famous for its blue grotto, and the mor