tell them to look pleasant; every
face wore a smile. I am sorry that my kodak does not reproduce colors.
The dresses of the women, though worn and faded, were very picturesque
in their combinations of scarlets, blues, and yellows."
"And I regret that cameras cannot reproduce the beautiful azure and
silver tints of the interior of the Blue Grotto just as we saw it
yesterday," said one of the ladies who was collecting photographs and
postal cards. "I want a good picture of the Grotto Azzurra but I cannot
find one. Those that are offered for sale are such poor imitations."
After the concert was over, we entered the salt water aquarium of
Naples, which is famous throughout Europe as the finest and largest
ichthyological collection in the world. In the glass tanks curious sea
fish darted through the water, grotesque sea monsters crawled over the
pebbles, and transparent jelly fish floated slowly; pink and white sea
anemones, like a bed of flowers, opened and closed, and diminutive sea
animals, almost invisible, spread thread-like tentacles; sponges and
coral grew upon the rocks, and mollusks showed by their movements that
they had life.
One evening we drove to the suburban village of Posilipo and from the
cliffs at that place saw the sun descend in glory, a golden ball
dropping into a radiant sea. While we were returning, a picturesque
beggar with a crooked stick and one string across it trotted alongside
our carriage, trying to convince us that he was a musician and his music
worth a penny. At dusk, an Italian boy ran alongside the carriage,
opened and lit the carriage lamps while the horse was moving at a rapid
gait, and asked for payment.
Naples is a city of striking contrasts. It was interesting to study
them. We drove over well paved streets, admiring marble palaces, great
hotels, and beautiful homes; but with feelings very different from
admiration we walked through narrow, filthy thoroughfares, densely
populated, where networks of clothes lines with garments of all colors
hung overhead. We saw high-spirited horses and superb carriages in the
avenues and parks, and teams of handsome cream-colored oxen in the
suburbs: but we saw also in the highways, small, rough-coated donkeys
overburdened with panniers of fruit; tall, bony horses mismatched with
diminutive donkeys; incongruous teams composed of a cow and a donkey,
or a large ox and a small cow; and a team even more grotesquely made up
of a horse, a cow, and a
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