scending or
descending the marble steps of the Casino.

"Is there a charge for admittance?" we inquired of the guard at the
entrance of the white palace.

"No," he replied. "Present your visiting card at the desk of the
Secretary in the corridor. He will approve. Then, after you have
registered your name, a card of admission will be given you."

In the decorated rooms where the games of chance were in operation, many
handsomely gowned women and well-dressed men were moving from place to
place conversing in quiet tones, but crowds were centered around the
roulette tables, where the chairs were all occupied and many people were
standing. We joined the throng around one of these and saw that the
table was divided into numbered spaces, some colored red and some black.
In the centre of the table was a little wheel with spaces to correspond
in number and color to those on the table. The stakes were silver five
franc pieces, one or more. No other coins nor bills were permitted on
the table.

"I will try it," said one of our party after watching the game awhile.
"I will place a five franc on number seven black."

The table was dotted with silver coins. The croupier touched a spring
that sent a small ball spinning around the wheel. The ball stopped in
space three red.

"Three red wins," announced the croupier.

A woman with gray hair and large diamonds in her ears picked up her
winnings and added them to the stack of silver on the table in front of
her, and the croupiers with wooden rakes raked in scores of coins that
had been laid on losing numbers.

At some of the tables in the magnificent apartments of the Casino the
stakes were higher, twenty franc gold pieces being used, and at these
tables, eager players, infatuated with the game, hazarded handfuls of
gold on the turn of the wheel.

"The chances to win or lose appear to be about even," said the
Californian. "They must, however, be in favor of the Casino; for the
company requires a large income to meet the enormous expenses incurred
in keeping up this handsome palace and grounds with thousands of
employees, croupiers, guards, gardeners, and care-takers. In addition,
the company pays a heavy tax to the Prince of Monaco, and yet is said to
have large profit."

[Illustration: THE POPULAR PROMENADE OF THE CITY.]

When our coach arrived at the hotel in Nice some one remarked: "You
appear to be enthusiastic over your drive." We were; there was no doubt
about it, an