elsewhere, compared with what he saw in India and other British
possessions. Peshawar is a very delightful place, or so at least it
appeared to me. We lodged in a capital though small hotel. The climate
was then very agreeable; the cantonment gardens and avenues are a
paradise of beauty, at least compared with the surrounding dry and
semi-barren country. In the native city one mixed with new races of
people, Afghans and Asians, and picturesque and fierce-looking tribesmen
from the hills. Also an immense number of camels, the only means of
traffic communication with western and northern native states.

But before arriving at Peshawar one must not forget to mention the
magnificent view obtained from the car windows of the glorious range of
Cashmere Snowy Mountains, showing peaks of 20,000 to 25,000 feet
elevation; nor the crossing by a fortified railway bridge of the
historic Indus River, near Attock, at the very spot where the Greek
Alexander entered India on his campaign of conquest A mile above this
point the Kabul River joins the Indus. Here too is a romantic-looking
town and fortress built by the Emperor Akbar, still unimpaired and in
occupation by British troops. The approaches to the bridge and fort are
strongly guarded, emplacements for guns being noticeable at every
vantage point on the surrounding hills, while ancient round towers and
other fortifications tell of the troublous times and martial deeds this
important position has been witness to.

For our visit to the Khaiber Pass General Nixon, Commandant at Peshawar,
put a carriage at our disposal, in which we drove as far as Jamrud, the
isolated fort so often pictured in our illustrated papers, where we
exchanged into tongas, in which to complete the journey through the pass
as far as Ali Musjid. The pass is now patrolled by the Afridi Rifles, a
corps composed of Afridi tribesmen commanded by British officers. At
frequent intervals along the route these Afridi sentinels can be seen
standing on silent guard on all commanding points of the hills. One sees
numerous Afridi hamlets, though what the occupants find to support
themselves with it is difficult to understand. A good carriage road
continues all the way, in places steep enough and tortuous, as the rough
broken nature of the country necessitates. By another road or trail,
paralleling our own, a continuous string of camel caravans proceeds in
single file at a leisurely gait, the animals loaded with merchandis