tected by their sanctity, flew about in clouds, or perched
on the projections of the palace walls. From a boat on the large and
lovely lake, on whose very edge the commanding palace stands, a
beautiful view is obtained. On islands in the lake two delightful little
summer palaces are built, of white marble and luxuriously furnished
within. Elephants were bathing themselves at the water's edge, and the
roar of caged lions was heard from the neighbouring royal garden.
Pea-fowl perched on the marble colonnade, and pigeons were circling and
sailing in the glorious sunshine. What a sight! especially when evening
drew in, and the setting sun lighted up the graceful cupolas and domes,
and threw shadows round the towers and battlements, the whole reflected
in the glassy surface of the water. At one place near by the wild pigs
approached to be fed and some grand old fellows may be seen amongst
them.

[Illustration: PALACE OF MAJARANA OF UDAIPUR.]

It is still the custom of nearly all men here above the rank of coolie
to carry swords or other weapons. For are these Rajputs not of a proud
and warlike race, as may be seen by their bearing; and is not their
Maharana of the longest lineage in India, and the highest in rank of all
the Rajput princes? A few miles from the capital is Chitorgarh. Here I
saw the wonderful old fortress, with its noble entrance gate, and the
ancient town of Chitor, once the capital of Mewar. Also the two imposing
towers of Fame and Victory. Throughout the state one is struck by the
great number of wild pea-fowl picking their way through the stubble just
as pheasants do. The flesh of pea-fowl, which I have tasted, is
excellent eating, surpassing that of the pheasant. One also sees numbers
of a large grey, long-tailed monkey, which seem to preferably attach
themselves to old and ruined temples or tombs. From here, Chitorgarh, I
next took train to Bombay, passing through Rutlam, a great
poppy-producing centre. At Baroda I received into my compartment the
brother of the late Gaikwar (uncle of the present?). It had often
occurred to me before to wonder how the high-class natives travel on the
railways. Never had I yet seen a native enter a first-class compartment
where there happened to be any Europeans. In this instance, at Baroda,
I had noticed a man, apparently of consequence, judging by his
attendants, evidently wanting to travel by this train. Soon one of the
party approached, and almost humbly, it seemed m