ore than politely, asked
if I would have no objection to the company of the brother of the
Gaikwar. Of course I said I could have no objection, and so we travelled
together to Bombay. But what is the feeling between the two races that
keeps them thus apart?
Bombay surprised me more by the delightfully cold breeze then blowing
than by anything else. I took a drive over Malabar Hill and saw the
Parsee Towers of Silence, as they are popularly called. The immense Taj
Hotel, where I stayed one night, by no means justifies its pretensions.
Indeed, it is one of the poorest or worst in all India. Next day I
started out for Hyderabad, and had a long, hot, slow twenty-four hours'
journey; the principal crop noticed being to me the familiar Kafir corn.
Yes, it was very hot and dusty. As usual, the train was packed with
natives, but myself seemed to be the only European on board. Arrived at
Hyderabad, I at once drove over to Secunderabad, a very large British
cantonment and station. From here, missing the friends I had come to
see, and there being nothing to specially interest otherwise, I again
took train to Madras. A letter of introduction in my pocket to the
Nizam's Prime Minister might have been useful in seeing the city had I
presented it, but pressure of time induced me to push on; nor did I stop
in Madras longer than to allow of a drive round the city, the heat being
very great. Indeed, I was getting very tired of such hurried travel and
sight-seeing, and was longing for a week's rest and quietude in the cool
and pleasant highlands of Ceylon. My health also was now giving me some
concern; so on again to Madura, _en route_ to Tuticorin, from whence a
steamer would take me across to the land of spicy breezes. Madura has a
wonderful old temple of immense size, surrounded by gopuras of pyramidal
form, in whose construction huge stones of enormous dimensions were
utilized; the temple also has much fine carving, etc. The old palace is
of great beauty and interest.
Colombo was, as usual, uncomfortably warm; only on the seashore at Galle
Face could one get relief, and Galle Face with its excellent hotel is
certainly a very delightful place. I did not stay in Colombo, but at
once took train to visit Anauradapura and the dead cities of Ceylon.
Here was the heart of a district ten miles in diameter, practically
covered by the site and remains of the ancient city, which in its prime,
about the beginning of the Christian era, ranked w
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