, if only they would pay a
little more attention to their table manners. Then, addressing the
innkeeper, I thought it only right to point out to him that it was
absurd to expect that one small black cloth should wipe all cups and
cup-lids, all tables, all spilt tea, and all dishes, all through the
day, without getting dirty. Occasionally, too, I pointed out another
defect of management to the innkeeper, and told him that, while I
personally had an open mind on the subject, other travellers might come
his way who would disapprove, for instance--he would pardon my
mentioning it--of the manure coolie passing through the restaurant with
his buckets at mealtime, and halting by the table to see the stranger
eat.

When I spoke in this way quite seriously and bowed, those whose eyes met
mine always bowed gravely in return. And for the next hour on the track
my men would tell each other, with cackles of laughter, how Mo Shensen,
their master, mystified the natives.

From Pupiao we had a pleasant ride over a valley-plain, between hedges
of cactus in flower and bushes of red roses, past graceful clumps of
bamboo waving like ostrich feathers. By-and-by drizzling rain came on
and compelled us to seek shelter in the only inn in a poor
out-of-the-way hamlet. But I could not stop here, because the best room
in the inn was already occupied by a military officer of some
distinction, a colonel, on his way, like ourselves, to Tengyueh. An
official chair with arched poles fitted for four bearers was in the
common-room; the mules of his attendants were in the stables, and were
valuable animals. The landlord offered me another room, an inferior one;
but I waved the open fingers of my left hand before my face and said,
"_puyao! puyao!_" (I don't want it, I don't want it). For I was not so
foolish or inconsistent as to be content with a poorer quarter of the
inn than that occupied by the officer, whatever his button. I could not
acknowledge to the Chinese that any Chinaman travelling in the Middle
Kingdom was my equal, let alone my superior. Refusing to remain, I
waited in the front room until the rain should lift and allow us to
proceed. But we did not require to go on. It happened as I expected. The
Colonel sent for me, and, bowing to me, showed by signs that one half
his room was at my service. In return for his politeness he had the
privilege of seeing me eat. With both hands I offered him in turn every
one of my dishes. Afterwards I show