are almost equal in dimension but somewhat different in
design. One of them--the south tower--possesses a small lancet doorway
on the west side, called the Lepers' Doorway, where probably lepers
entered to attend mass in days gone by, remaining unseen and isolated
from the rest of the congregation. The south wall possesses a
magnificent rose window, above which is another window, called the
_Window of Excommunication_. The rose window is unfortunately filled
with modern glass, but one or two of the side windows are good. The
basin for holy-water, dating from the twelfth century, is said to have
been the tomb of Conan Meriadec, first of the Breton kings.

A small bell, said to have belonged to St. Pol, is kept in the church,
and on the day of the _Pardon_ of Leon (the chief fete of the year) is
carried up and down the nave and rung vigorously over the heads of the
faithful to preserve them from headache and ear-ache.

The best view of the interior is obtained by standing in the choir, as
near as possible to the tomb of St. Pol--distinguished by a black marble
slab immediately in front of the altar--and looking westward. The
long-drawn aisle is very fine; the stalls and decoration of the choir
stand out well, whilst the Early-Pointed arches on either side are
marked by beauty and refinement. The west end of the nave seems quite
far off and becomes almost dream-like.

Yet in some way the Cathedral of St. Pol de Leon left upon us a certain
feeling of disappointment. The interior did not seem equal to the
exterior; and as the church has been much praised at different times by
those capable of distinguishing the good in architecture, we attributed
this impression to the effect of its comparatively recent restoration.

Behind the cathedral is an old prebendal house, belonging to the
sixteenth century and possessing many interesting details. Beyond it
again was the small chapel of St. Joseph, attached to the convent of the
Ursuline nuns, founded in 1630. For St. Pol de Leon is still essentially
a religious and ecclesiastical town, living on its past glory and
reputation. Once immensely rich, it now impresses one with a feeling of
sadness and poverty.

One wonderful little glimpse we had of an earthly paradise.

Not far from the cathedral we had strayed into a garden, for the great
gates were open and the vision dazzled us. We had rarely seen such a
wealth of flowers. Large rose-trees, covered with blooms, outvied each
oth