the streets, where the poorer
people live an underground life resembling that of the moles. The
cellars go far back, and light never penetrates into their recesses.

Again, some of the houses had courtyards of quaint and interesting
architecture. One of them especially is worth visiting. A long narrow
passage leads you to a quaint yard with seven arches supported by
columns, with an upper gallery supported by more columns. It might have
formed part of a miniature cloister in days gone by.

On the way towards the church, we passed the chapel dedicated to St.
Ninian, of which nothing remains now but the bare enclosure and the
ancient and beautiful gateway. This, ruined as it is, is the most
interesting relic in Roscoff. It was here that Mary Queen of Scots
landed when only five years old, to be married to the Dauphin of France.
The form of her foot was cut out in the rock on which she first stepped,
but we failed to see it. Perhaps time and the effect of winds and waves
have worn it away. Footsteps disappear even on a stronger foundation
than the sands of time. The little chapel was built to commemorate her
landing, and its ruins are surrounded by a halo of sadness and romance.
Four days after her landing she was betrothed. But the happy careless
childhood was quickly to pass away; the "fevered life of a throne" was
most essentially to be hers; plot and counterplot were to embitter her
days; until at last, at the bidding of "great Elizabeth," those
wonderful eyes were to close for the last time upon the world, and that
lovely head was to be laid upon the block.

The sad history overshadows the little chapel in Roscoff as a halo; for
us overshadowed the whole town.

Adjoining the chapel still exists the house in which the child-queen
lodged on landing, also with a very interesting courtyard.

Looking down towards the church from this point, the houses wore a grey,
sad and deserted aspect. The church tower rises above them, quaint and
curious, in the Renaissance style. The interior is only remarkable for
some curious alabaster bas-reliefs, representing the Passion and the
Resurrection; an old tomb serving as _benitier_, some ancient fonts, and
the clever sculpturing of a boat representing the arms of the town; a
device also found on the left front of the tower.

There is also a large ossuary in the corner of the small churchyard, now
disused. These ossuaries, or _reliquaires_, in the graveyards of
Brittany were built