antelioni, who attended me when I
was ill in Rome, who was employed by Count Cavour to negotiate with
Prince Napoleon and the Emperor the treaty of the 15th September, by
which the French troops have evacuated Rome; but he is now an exile from
Rome, but hopes soon to return thither. He has the first medical
practice here, as he had at Rome.
_Florence, March 19th._--Since I wrote to you from Rome, we went to
Naples, in ten hours, by railway; spent three days there, and returned,
the fourth, here--in 23 hours from Naples--arriving here Sunday morning,
in time to dress, get breakfast, and go to church, where we heard the
liturgy read evangelically, and a good evangelical sermon. The Church at
Rome is High Church; that at Florence is evangelical. But I heard an
excellent service from the Dean of Ely (Mr. Goodwin), at Rome. I can
give you no particulars of our tour. I do not enjoy it. I have wished a
good many times that you were in my place, and that I had a week's quiet
on my Island. Rome was dirty, as well as almost wholly given to
superstition, though there is a strong and widespread hostility among
the masses to the temporal power of the Pope. Naples was dirty, but
evinced much business activity. Florence is clean, industrious, and all
the people cleanly and well-dressed, except some beggars--an old legacy.
But the general hostility to the priesthood is remarkable, though not
surprising. The Government had gained in the recent elections, but has a
difficult part to play, between the Church and Anti-Church parties, and
keeping up a large army, and imposing heavy taxes, of which all
complain.
_Venice, March 28th._--At Florence, the British Minister introduced me
to Count Usedon, the Prussian Minister at Florence, formerly at Paris,
a most delightful and variously learned man, who invited me to go to his
villa, but I had not time, and who told me all about the working of the
Prussian System of Public Instruction, in each neighbourhood--saying
that the law had not been changed at all since I was in Prussia; that
the Government did nothing but inspect, and see that each locality had a
school of a certain kind, and that each person educated his children;
but that each locality taxed itself for the support of its school. He
told me I could find nothing suitable to my purpose in Prussia, in
respect to the militia organization in connection with the school
system, as there was no connection between the one and the other, and
|