inning of the sixth century, when
it was finally repaired by Theodoric, it fell into desuetude. The
people, owing to the unsettled state of the country, were afraid to
move from home. A grievous apathy took possession of all classes;
agriculture was neglected, and the drains being stopped up, the line
of route was inundated, and the road, especially on the low levels,
became quite impassable. For centuries it continued in this state,
until it was overgrown with a marshy vegetation in the wet places, and
covered with turf in the dry. About a hundred years ago Pope Pius VI.
drained the Pontine Marshes, and restored other parts of the road, and
made it available as the ordinary land-route from Rome to Naples. But
it was left to Pio Nono to uncover the road between Rome and Albano,
which had previously been confounded with the Campagna, and was only
indicated by the double line of ruined tombs. After three years of
hard work, and an expenditure of L3000, the part most interesting to
the archaeologist--namely, from the third to the eleventh
milestone--was laid bare, its monuments identified as far as possible,
and a wall of loose stones built on both sides, to protect it from the
encroachments of the neighbouring landowners. And now the modern
traveller can walk or ride or drive comfortably over the very pavement
which Horace and Virgil, Augustus and Paul traversed, and gaze upon
the ruins of the very objects that met their eyes.

Taking our departure from the site of the Porta Capena, we are
reminded that it was at the Porta Capena that the survivor of the
Horatii met his sister, who had been betrothed to one of the Curiatii,
and who, when she saw her brother carrying the cloak of her dead
lover, which she had wrought with her own hand, upbraided him in a
passion of tears for his cruelty. Enraged at the sight of her grief,
Horatius drew his sword and stabbed her to the heart, crying, "So
perish the Roman maiden that shall weep for her country's enemy!" The
tomb of the hapless maiden long stood on the spot. It was at the Porta
Capena also that the senate and people of Rome gave to Cicero a
splendid ovation on his return from banishment. Numerous historical
buildings clustered round this gate--a temple of Mars, of Hercules, of
Honour and Virtue, and a fountain dedicated to Mercury, described by
Ovid; but not a trace of these now remains.

On the left, at the back of the Coelian Hill, is a valley covered with
verdure, wonder