ish
efflorescence, and emits a most offensive sulphurous smell. It
exhibits the same evidences of recent volcanic activity as the
neighbourhood of Lakes Tartarus and Solfatara on the way to Tivoli.

The road after this descends into a valley, through which the stream
of the Ponticello flows, passing a most massive circular tomb,
reminding one of the mounds of the Horatii and Curiatii; and as it
ascends gradually on the opposite side, two huge sepulchres of the
Imperial period--one on the right hand and the other on the
left--attract notice, and are the last on this part of the route. The
railway to Naples passes across the road at the eleventh milestone,
and disturbs the solemn silence three or four times a day by its
incongruous noise. Beyond this is the osteria and village of
Frattocchie, where the old Appian Way merges into the new, and ascends
continuously to Albano. This neighbourhood is full of historical
associations. It was at Frattocchie that the body of Clodius was left
lying on the road after his fatal encounter with Milo. This fray
furnished the occasion for one of Cicero's most eloquent
speeches,--that in defence of Milo,--which was written, but owing to
the disturbances in the Forum at the time was not delivered. On the
left of the village, near a railway bridge and several quarries of
very old hard lava, is the site of Appiolae, one of the cities of the
Latin League, destroyed by Tarquinius Priscus. All the male population
were killed, and the women and children transferred to Rome; and with
the spoils the Capitolium was completed. The remains of the old city
are very slight, consisting of a wall, a few vestiges of a temple, and
some foundations on a cliff surrounded by a stream, which could be
dammed up and flooded so as to form a fosse. On the right of
Frattocchie are the ruins of _Bovillae_, taken and plundered by
Coriolanus, and deserted in the time of Cicero. Some arches of the
corridor of an amphitheatre, a reservoir for water, tolerably perfect,
and a circus, are still visible. There are also the ruins of a forum.
The view, looking back from this elevated position upon the long
course of the Appian Way, is exceedingly striking. One feels, when
gazing on the long perspective of rugged and mouldering sepulchres,
the full force of the name _Strada del Diavolo_ which the peasants
give to this street of tombs; and can sympathise with the sentiment
that made Charles Dickens say, when standing here at su