roused to the
beauty and sublimity of the surrounding scenery. We had just passed Fort
San Carlos, at the junction of the San Juan River with the lake, and
before us was spread out like an ocean that magnificent sheet of water.
It was dotted all over with green islands, and reminded me of the
picture drawn by Addison of the Vision of Mirza.

Here, said I to myself, is the home of the blest. These emerald islets,
fed by vernal skies, never grow sere and yellow in the autumn; never
bleak and desolate in the winter. Perpetual summer smiles above them,
and wavelets dimpled by gentle breezes forever lave their shores. Rude
storms never howl across these sleeping billows, and the azure heavens
whisper eternal peace to the lacerated heart.

Hardly had these words escaped my lips, when a loud report, like a whole
park of artillery, suddenly shook the air. It seemed to proceed from the
westward, and on turning our eyes in that direction, we beheld the true
cause of the phenomenon. Ometepe was in active eruption. It had given no
admonitory notice of the storm which had been gathering in its bosom,
but like the wrath of those dangerous men we sometimes encounter in
life, it had hidden its vengeance beneath flowery smiles, and covered
over its terrors with deceitful calm.

In a moment the whole face of nature was changed. The skies became dark
and lurid, the atmosphere heavy and sultry, and the joyous waters across
which we had been careering only a moment before with animation and
laughter, rose in tumultuous swells, like the cross-seas in the Mexican
Gulf after a tornado. Terror seized all on board the steamer, and the
passengers were clamorous to return to Fort San Carlos. But the captain
was inexorable, and seizing the wheel himself, he defied the war of the
elements, and steered the vessel on her ordinary course. This lay
directly to the south of Ometepe, and within a quarter of a mile of the
foot of the volcano.

As we approached the region of the eruption, the waters of the lake
became more and more troubled, and the air still more difficult to
respire. Pumice-stone, seemingly as light as cork, covered the surface
of the lake, and soon a terrific shower of hot ashes darkened the very
sun. Our danger at this moment was imminent in the extreme, for, laying
aside all consideration of peril from the volcano itself, it was with
great difficulty that the ashes could be swept from the deck fast enough
to prevent the woodwork fr