still prevalent amongst the better classes in Central
America; whilst Carrera, on the other hand, professed the wildest
liberty and the extremest democracy. The first carried in his train the
wealth, official power, and refinement of the country; the latter drew
after him that huge old giant, _Plebs._, who in days gone by has pulled
down so many thrones, built the groundwork of so many republics, and
then, by fire and sword and barbarian ignorance, laid their trophies in
the dust. My sense and sympathy took different directions. Reason led me
to the side of Morazan; but early prejudices carried me over to Carrera.
Very soon, however, I was taught the lesson, that power in the hands of
the rabble is the greatest curse with which a country can be afflicted,
and that a _paper constitution_ never yet made men free. I found out,
too, that the entire population was a rabble and that it made but little
difference which hero was in the ascendant. The plunder of the
laboring-classes was equally the object of both, and anarchy the fate of
the country, no matter who held the reins. Civil wars have corrupted the
whole population. The men are all _bravos_, and the women coquettes. The
fireside virtues are unknown. It will be generations before those
pseudo-republicans will learn that there can be no true patriotism where
there is no country; there can be no country where there are no homes;
there can be no home where woman rules not from the throne of Virtue
with the sceptre of Love!

I had been robbed eighteen times in six months; taken prisoner four
times by each party; sent in chains to the city of Guatemala, twice by
Carrera, and once by Morazan as a spy; and condemned to be shot as a
traitor by both chieftains. In each instance I owed my liberation to the
American Consul-General, who, having heard the object with which I
visited the country, determined that it should not be thwarted by these
intestine broils.

Finally, as announced above, I reached the present termination of my
journey, and immediately commenced preparations to explore the famous
ruins in the neighborhood. The first want of a traveler, no matter
whither he roams, is a guide; and I immediately called at the redstone
residence of the Alcalde, and mentioned to him my name, the purport of
my visit to Central America, and the object of my present call upon him.
Eying me closely from head to foot, he asked me if I had any money
("Tiene V. dinero?")

"Si, senor."