and devils in business abroad.--_Horum utrum magis velim_, _mihi incertum
est_.

III. UNIVERSITY LIFE AND TRAVEL IN EUROPE. 1845-1848.

Passage in a sailing ship--Gibraltar--Marseilles--Smugglers and a
slaver--Italy--Life in Rome--Torlonia's balls and the last great Carnival
of 1846--Navone, the chief of police--Florence--Venice--How I passed the
Bridge of Sighs--The Black Bait--Slavery--Crossing the
Simplon--Switzerland--Pleasing introduction to Germany--Student life at
Heidelberg--Captain Medwin--Justinus Kerner--How I saw Jenny
Lind--Munich--Lola Montez--Our house on fire--All over Germany--How I was
turned out of Poland--Paris in 1847--The Revolution of 1848--I become
conspirator and captain of barricades--Taking of the Tuileries--The
police bow me out of Prance--A season in London--Return to America.

After our return to Philadelphia something of great importance to me
began to be discussed. My cousin Samuel Godfrey, who was a few years
older than I, finding himself threatened with consumption, of which all
his family died, resolved to go to Marseilles on a voyage, and persuaded
my father to let me accompany him. At this time I had, as indeed for
many years before, such a desire to visit Europe that I might almost have
died of it. So it was at last determined that I should go with "Sam,"
and after all due preparations and packing, I bade farewell to mother and
Henry and the dear little twin sisters, and youngest Emily, our pet, and
went with my father to New York, where I was the guest for a few days of
my cousin, Mrs. Caroline Wight, whom the reader may recall as the one who
used to correct my French exercises in Dedham.

We were to sail in a packet or ship for Marseilles. My father saw me
off. He was wont to say in after years, that as I stood on the deck at
the last moment and looked affectionately at him, there was in my eyes an
expression of innocence or goodness and gentleness which he never saw
again. Which was, I am sure, very true; the great pity being that that
look had not utterly disappeared years before. If it only _had_ vanished
with boyhood, as it ought to have done, my father would have been spared
much sorrow.

At this time I was a trifle over six feet two in height, and had then and
for some time after so fair a red and white complexion, that the young
ladies in Philadelphia four years later teased me by spreading the report
that I used rouge and white paint! I was not as ye