h thing was perceived
marvellously soon, and not without some amazement, by the Germans, who
have all at least this one point in common with Savages, New Jerseymen,
Red Indians, Negroes, Gypsies, and witches, that they by mystic sympathy
_know those who like them_, and take to them accordingly, guided by some
altogether inexplicable clue or _Hexengarn_, even as deep calleth unto
deep and star answereth star without a voice. Whence it was soon
observed at Heidelberg by an American student that "Leland would abuse
the Dutch all day long if he saw fit, but never allowed anybody else to
do so." The which thing, as I think, argues the very _ne plus ultra_ of
sympathy.

I found my way to Strasburg, where I went to the tip-top outside of the
cathedral, and took the railway train for Heidelberg. And here I had an
adventure, which, though trifling to the last degree, was to me such a
great and new experience that I will describe it, let the reader think
what he will. I went naturally enough first-class, so uncommon a thing
then in Germany that people were wont to say that only princes,
Englishmen, and asses did so. There entered the same carriage a very
lady-like and pretty woman. The guard, seeing this, concluded
that--whatever he concluded, he carefully drew down all the curtains,
looking at me with a cheerful, genial air of intense mystery, as if to
say, "I twig; it's all right; I'll keep your secret."

It is a positive fact that all this puzzled me amazingly. There were
many things in which I, the friend and pupil of Navone, was as yet as
innocent as a babe unborn. The lady seemed to be amused--as well she
might. _Sancta simplicitas_! I asked her why the conductor had drawn
the curtains. She laughed, and explained that he possibly thought we
were a bridal pair or lovers. Common sense and ordinary politeness
naturally inspired the reply that I wished we were, which declaration was
so amiably received that I suggested the immediate institution of such an
arrangement. Which was so far favourably received that it was sealed
with a kiss. However, the seal was not broken. I think the lady must
have been very much amused. It is not without due reflection that I
record this. Kissing went for very little in Germany in those days. It
was about as common in Vienna as shaking hands. But this was my first
experience in it. So I record it, because it seems as if some benevolent
fairy had welcomed me to Germany; it too