rt of Holland." Here a word about Scheffel. During
the following semester he was for months a daily table-companion of mine
at the Bremer-Eck, where a small circle of students--_quorum pars
fui_--met every evening to sup and _kneip_, or to drink beer and smoke
and sing until eleven. Little did I dream in those days that he would
become the great popular poet of his time, or that I should ever
translate his _Gaudeamus_. I owe the "Court of Holland" to this day for
a dinner and a bottle of wine. It is the only debt I owe, to my
knowledge, to anybody on earth.

It was resolved among the Americans that we should all make a
foot-excursion with knapsacks down the Rhine to Cologne. It was done. So
we went gaily from town to town, visiting everything, making excursions
inland now and then. We had a bottle or two of the best Johannisberg in
the very Schloss itself--_omne cum praetio_--and meeting with such
adventures as befell all wandering students in those old-fashioned, merry
times. The Rhine was wild as yet, and not paved, swept, garnished and
full of modern villas and adornment, as now. I had made, while in
America, a manuscript book of the places and legends of and on the Rhine,
with many drawings. This, and a small volume of Snow's and Planche's
"Legends of the Rhine," I carried with me. I was already well informed
as to every village and old ruin or tower on the banks.

So we arrived at Cologne, and saw all the sights. The cathedral was not
then finished, and the town still boasted its two-and-seventy stinks, as
counted by Coleridge. Then we returned by steamer to Mainz, and thence
footed it home.

Little by little I rather fell away from my American friends, and began
to take to German or English associates, and especially to the company of
two Englishmen. One was named Leonard Field, who is now a lawyer in
Lincoln's Inn Fields; the other was Ewan P. Colquhoun, a younger brother
of Sir Patrick Colquhoun, whom I knew well, and as friend, in after
years, until his recent death. I always, however, maintained a great
intimacy with George Ward, of Boston, who became long after a banker and
Baring's agent in America. In one way and another these two twined into
my life in after years, and led to my making many acquaintances or
friends.

I walked a great deal all about Heidelberg to many very picturesque
places, maintaining deep interest in all I saw by much loving reading of
_Des Knaben Wunderhorn_ and Uh