of exchanging
kisses of fraternal love. Theoretically one ought to embrace and be
embraced by all present--indicating thereby that all are brethren in
Christ--but the refinements of modern life have made innovations in the
practice, and most people confine their salutations to their friends
and acquaintances. When two friends meet during that night or on the
following day, the one says, "Christos voskres!" ("Christ hath risen!");
and the other replies, "Vo istine voskres!" ("In truth he hath risen!").
They then kiss each other three times on the right and left cheek
alternately. The custom is more or less observed in all classes of
society, and the Emperor himself conforms to it.

This reminds me of an anecdote which is related of the Emperor Nicholas
I., tending to show that he was not so devoid of kindly human feelings
as his imperial and imperious exterior suggested. On coming out of his
cabinet one Easter morning he addressed to the soldier who was mounting
guard at the door the ordinary words of salutation, "Christ hath risen!"
and received instead of the ordinary reply, a flat contradiction--"Not
at all, your Imperial Majesty!" Astounded by such an unexpected
answer--for no one ventured to dissent from Nicholas even in the most
guarded and respectful terms--he instantly demanded an explanation. The
soldier, trembling at his own audacity, explained that he was a Jew,
and could not conscientiously admit the fact of the Resurrection. This
boldness for conscience' sake so pleased the Tsar that he gave the man a
handsome Easter present.

A quarter of a century after the Easter Eve above mentioned--or, to be
quite accurate, on the 26th of May, 1896--I again find myself in the
Kremlin on the occasion of a great religious ceremony--a ceremony
which shows that "the White-stone City" on the Moskva is still in some
respects the capital of Holy Russia. This time my post of observation is
inside the cathedral, which is artistically draped with purple hangings
and crowded with the most distinguished personages of the Empire, all
arrayed in gorgeous apparel--Grand Dukes and Grand Duchesses, Imperial
Highnesses and High Excellencies, Metropolitans and Archbishops,
Senators and Councillors of State, Generals and Court dignitaries. In
the centre of the building, on a high, richly decorated platform, sits
the Emperor with his Imperial Consort, and his mother, the widowed
Consort of Alexander III. Though Nicholas II. has not the co