rubbery--one, the flora pondia, a very
beautiful, but diminutive tree, blossoms luxuriantly, with delicate,
white flowers, shaped like inverted cones, or bells, and although
shedding no odor during the day, yet at night it fairly renders the air
oppressive with perfume. These lofty turrets command fine views of bay,
shipping, and port, fully repaying the fatigue of getting up, in the
absence of dust, dirt and noise.

To the left, bordering close upon the harbor, is a long curving
promenade, called _El almendral_--almond grove--for no other reason
possibly than that there is not a vestige of trees or verdant leaves to
be seen. Away at the southward, in the opposite extremity of the city,
on what the sailors designate as the fore and main tops, is another
succession of sharply riven ravines, filled and faced with clusters of
one storied dwellings, from the summits down to the narrow gorges
between. It requires some geographical knowledge to explore these
regions, and though the toil of clambering about the uneven chasms and
numerous lanes, be not pleasant, yet one is recompensed while mounting
the steep acclivities by the most novel and striking views of the sea
or city at every turn--never being able to determine where the next
flight will lead--whether but a few yards from the spot just left, with
a bird's eye view of the shipping, or shut up in small causeways between
redly-tiled roofs, with the scene closed by barriers of whitewashed
walls, and even after attaining another airy eminence, under the belief
of having the broad ocean spread out at your feet, one is startled to
find himself gazing quite in another direction. These tops, with the
_quebradas_ between, are portions of the terrace, where we spent some
pleasant hours, dancing the _samacueca_, or fandangos, to the tinkling
of guitars, swept by nimble fingers of sloe-eyed Chilians. We were
always received courteously and sincerely, and in making ourselves
particularly agreeable, have been occasionally treated to a sip of weak
rum negus.

Once, accompanied by a friend in these exploring rambles, we had the
good fortune, through the medium of cigarillos, smiles, and a smattering
of Castilian, to make the acquaintance of a hospitable old lady and her
two pretty daughters. Carmencita was my favorite--lovely Carmencita! She
was very pretty--large, very large black eyes, half shut with roguery,
or coquetry; an adorable plump little figure, and what with a fairy
touch