the primitive mud, and forming a
large parallelogram; it enclosed a huge pen, or corral, for cattle, over
which guard was carefully mounted by crowds of _gallinazos_. There were
divers collections of Indian families coiled and huddled about beneath
the porticoes and doorways, each member thereof rejoicing in great
masses of wiry shocks of hair, quite coarse enough to weave into bird
cages on an emergency; there were some bee-hive shaped ovens also, from
the apertures of which I remarked a number of filthy individuals
immersed neck deep, taking, no doubt, balmy slumber, with the rain doing
what they never had the energy to perform themselves--washing their
faces. This much for externals--men and beasts included, merely
premising that the whole affair was situated in a quiet detachment by
itself, a few hundred yards in rear of the village. My guide, though a
good pilot, and retaining a clear perception of the road, was unable to
convoy me safely to the house, without getting stalled several times in
the mire; however, I reached terra firma, thankful to have escaped with
my boots overflowing with mud, and then we marched boldly into the
domicile. We entered a large, white-washed _sala_, when, after clapping
hands, a concourse of small children approached with a lighted tallow
link, and in reply to our inquiries, without further ceremony, ushered
us by another apartment into the presence of the mistress of the
mansion. She was sitting _a la grand Turque_, on the chief ornamental
structure that graced the chamber--namely, the bed, upon which, were
sportively engaged three diminutive brats, with a mouse-trap--paper
cigarritos--dirty feet, and other juvenile and diverting toys. The Dona
herself was swallowing and puffing clouds of smoke alternately--but I
must paint her as she sat, through the haze. "Juana," said she, calling
to a short, squat Indian girl, "_lumbrecita por el Senor_,"--a light for
the gentleman--and in a moment I was likewise pouring forth volumes of
smoke. She wore her hair, which was black and glossy, in natural folds
straight down the neck and shoulders, dark complexion, lighted by deep,
black, intelligent eyes, well-shaped features, and brilliant, white
teeth. I saw but little of her figure, as she was almost entirely
enveloped in shawls and bed clothes; the arms, however, were visible,
very large, round and symmetrical, which of themselves induced me to
resign all pretensions to becoming her son-in-law. Sh