prelude and music is similar to that of fandangos, but the
movements and _motif_ are far more indelicate, and it is by no means a
matter of difficulty to divine the meaning. Although these innocent
ballets would no doubt shockingly jar the nerves of a more refined
audience, and many a performer might be considered "too fine a dancer
for a virtuous woman," yet I am convinced that among these unaffected
creoles, naught is seen in the least degree improper, but they are
regarded from infancy as the harmless customs and amusements of their
country. As an individual I am fond of a notion of cayenne to existence,
and only clapped hands, or cried, _brava! buena! bonita!_

The opera was in full blast--the house large and convenient, with very
pretty scenic displays, and quite a brilliant constellation of Italian
stars to illumine the proscenium, but on no representation did there
appear evidence in the boxes that the manager's purse was filled. We had
the honor of being presented to the primo basso, Signor Marti, who
conversed pleasantly with a melodramatic voice from apparently very low
down in his boots. We listened to his sweet _seguadillas_ with rapture.

We found the climate truly delightful. It was the summer of the southern
ocean--pure, pleasant breezes with the sun, and clear, calm, sparkling
nights by moon or stars. Little or no rain falls, except in the winter
months, and as a consequence where the soil is fine and dry, dust covers
everything in impalpable clouds, at the same time affording a desirable
atmosphere for that lively individual, the flea!

On the coast of Syria the Arabs hold to the proverb that the Sultan of
fleas holds his court in Jaffa, and the Grand Vizier in Cairo; but so
far as our experience went in Valparaiso, we could safely give the lie
to the adage. As an unobtrusive person myself, I have a constitutional
antipathy to the entire race, and invariably use every precaution to
avoid their society--all to no purpose. They found me in crowds or
solitudes--alighted on me in swarms, like the locusts of Egypt,
destroying enjoyment on shore, and I fully resolved never to venture
abroad again, of mine own free will, until some enterprising Yankee
shall invent a trap for their annihilation.

I remember one mild afternoon sauntering on the almendral, when my
attention was drawn to a lithe, young damsel on the sidewalk, who,
whilst tripping along with a dainty gait, suddenly gave her foot a
backward twis