interrupt the constant interchange of
beans between him and his grave companion. We commenced ascending the
pass that bars the road to the valley of St. Johns, and after winding a
couple of hours slowly among the hills, gained the topmost ridge--which
commands a fine triangular view of the rich slopes and plains below--and
then soon accomplished the descent--passing the ruined village and
dilapidated mission of San Juan, we galloped briskly around. On the road
I enticed a mounted Indian into service by a taste from the brandy
bottle, to act as _vacuero_--by no means a sinecure birth with such a
lazy perverse set of brutes as we possessed--but I was grieved to find
the soldier, sent as my guide and defender, had more than he was equal
to in keeping himself and musket in the saddle. Moreover, he was neither
amiable nor companionable--a serious crime for a traveler--and I was
obliged at times, to drive and catch the horses, talk for him, and in
fact, do all but eat and sleep for him--which last accomplishments he
enjoyed in perfection, having a constitution like refined steel. I am
happy to add, out of regard for the army, that he deserted shortly
afterwards; although he forgot in his hurry to return a silver cup of
mine.

Skirting along the banks of a rapid stream, the shades of night began
to fall as we drew bridles at a small rancho of one Don Herman. Our
host, as usual with the race, was making a slight repast on a paper
cigar: he was very cordial, and good-looking, as was also his still
handsome old sposa. Like everybody I encountered before and since in the
interior, they inquired when the United States Government would pay for
horses and cattle taken during the war. _Quien sabe_--who knows--always
came to my aid, and I drawled it out much to the purpose. Indeed, though
our Californian Volunteers be good men and true among their own kith and
kindred, yet their mistaken ideas of what constituted civilized warfare
made them the most unscrupulous of freebooters; and they could be
tracked far and near in their thirst for their enemy's horses and asses.

My host had no children, but, like Spanish padres, lots of nephews and
nieces. Amid a detached group of young people, I observed a pretty
little girl, as I at first supposed a child, nursing an infant, but on
inquiry I learned that she was the mother at fourteen, and had been
married two years and a half; a fact which beats East India jungles for
the precocity of women.