203

CHAPTER XXX.

We Begin a Journey to the City of Mexico.--Disembark at San
Blas.--Ride to Tepic.--Cotton Mills of Barron, Forbes &
Co.--Volcanic Masses.--Aquacatlan.--The Red-hot Patriot.--Wake of
Don Pancho.--Plan de Barrancas.--The Piece of
Ordnance.--Muchatilti.--Madelena.--How Horses are Hired in the
Republic.--Race with Banditti. 216

CHAPTER XXXI.

Guadalajara.--Senor Llamas.--The Lovely Senora.--Plaza and
Beauty.--The Great Bridge.--Old Cypriano's Superstition regarding
Horses' Souls.--Tepetitlan.--Pueblos del Rincon.--The Drowsy
Commandante.--City of Leon.--Knife Duel.--Mexican Mesons, and the
Society therein.--Illumination and Supper.--We take Coach and
reach Guanajuato.--The English Mint and
Machinery.--Gaming.--Scenic Views.--Pat is a Deserter.--Don
Pancho.--Escape from Los Compadres. 232

CHAPTER XXXII.

Queretaro.--Aqueduct.--Night ride by Post.--The United States
Escort.--City of Mexico.--We are refused a
Drive.--Cathedral.--Palace.--Plaza.--Museum.--Sacrificial
Stone.--Manners and Customs in the Hells of
Montezuma.--Chapultepec.--The Deep Spring where we bathed.--Moleno
del Rey.--Paseo. 251

CHAPTER XXXIII.

Bureau of Postes.--Depart from the Aztec Capital.--Exemptions of
Government Extraordinarios.--Livery Stable Woman at
Tepetitlan.--Invited to a Country Seat, and dine with Ladies.--We
are afterwards kicked by a Horse, but continue the
journey.--American Deserters.--Encounter Ladrons, and present our
Passport.--Somebody killed by Mistake.--Excitement in
Queretaro.--Traitors of San Patricio.--Official Visits.--The
Dignitaries of the Republic.--Breakfast with a Brilliant
Colonel.--The Alemeda.--We run a Joust.--Treaty signed. 260

CHAPTER XXXIV.

Senor Rosa forgets our Escort, and we are scared and nearly
coach-wrecked.--Mine of La Luz.--Pass through Guanajuato to
Lagos.--A Pronunciamento.--Padre Jarauta, who treats us with
contempt, and afterwards wishes to make an _ejemplo_.--We bid a
Hasty Farewell.--An Ambulating Pulperia.--San Juan de
Lagos.--Arrieros.--Puente Calderon.--Bathing in the Rio
Grande.--The Rayo. 275

CHAPTER XXXV.

Bull-fight at Guadalajara.--What Fools the Beasts are, and what
Brutes the Men are.--La Comedia.--Antique Guide.--Execution of
Robbers.--Tequilla.--Patron of the Me