intment; then comes Barcola, where excavations have
proved the existence of Roman villas, which have enriched the museum of
Trieste with many interesting objects; and at last the train slackens
and stops at the west end of the town, in the fine station built with
that disregard for economy of space and lavish expenditure of material
which the Englishman finds remarkable in Continental railway management.

[Illustration: SHIPPING AT TRIESTE: THE CANAL, WITH THE GREEK CHURCH AND
SANT' ANTONIO

_To face page 57_]

Trieste is primarily a modern town, and the people are very proud of the
important buildings which adorn it, as they have every right to be. The
post office, for instance, is palatial, and round and near to the Piazza
Grande are large and showy edifices which include the Town Hall and the
Lloyd Palace, while the Greek church is a fine building in the Byzantine
style, decorated with mosaics, and the church of Sant' Antonio makes
a very effective termination to the Canale Grande. The broad quays are
thronged with people of many nationalities and varied costumes, from the
ships which lie along them flaunting ensigns of all kinds--red and white
crosses, blue, yellow, and black stripes, moons and stars--Italian,
Norwegian, Greek, Turkish, French, and Montenegrin, as well as Istrian
and Dalmatian. The Greek ships generally lie in the Canal, the Norwegian
by the Molo S. Carlo (so called from a warship which was sunk in 1737),
and beyond the health office for the port at the Molo Giuseppino, where
many others also lie, and the various passenger steamers in definite
berths--the big English steamers at the end of the projecting quays.
From a Sicilian ship hundreds of chests of oranges and lemons may be
seen unloading; from a Venetian _trabarcolo_ great heaps of onions and
ropes of garlic; an Istrian boat disgorges a small mountain of green
water-melons; from a Dalmatian cutter barrel after barrel of wine is
rolled out, much of which goes on to Bordeaux (!); and the same from a
Greek schooner near, while its neighbour from the Levant lands grapes
and chests of raisins, and the Norwegian ship brings train oil or wood.
Many Turkish and Albanian costumes lighten up the crowd with their
brilliant colours and quaint shapes, Bosniaks and Montenegrins are
occasionally seen, and a fair number of Morlacchi, though fewer than
lower down the coast. The weather-beaten Chioggian fishermen, too, with
their red caps and waist-scarves, b