th century. In the walls of the principal
church are fragments of sixth-century work. There is a tradition that it
was founded when Cissa sank into the sea in the seventh century. The
site of this city was near the modern lighthouse, and remains of its
buildings are believed to be recognisable beneath the water at the point
called Barbariga, on the further side of the Bay of S. Pelagio. The
large beds of murex shells in certain places are an indication that
there were purple dye-works here, an industry for which Cissa was
celebrated. Rovigno is situated upon a rock, and was surrounded with
walls. Within their area the houses, as seen from the sea or from the
railway station behind the town, seem to be piled one over the other,
and culminate very picturesquely in the campanile at the top. Beyond the
railway station on the Bay of S. Pelagio are the Berlin aquarium for the
study of the marine fauna of the Adriatic, and a sanatorium for
scrofulous children, opened in 1888. The neighbourhood being
fever-stricken the peasants live in the city, going and returning to
their work morning and evening. Their Sunday costume consists of
ornamented leather shoes, tight white hose of wool, a broad-sleeved
white shirt with a frill in front, dark waistcoat, and flat black cap.
They have the curious custom of wearing one large earring in the left
ear. Rovigno is a good market for wine--considered the best in
Istria--olives, sardines, and hazel-nuts which are reputed the finest in
the world. Consequently, amongst the inhabitants are many merchants, and
the fishers' guild is very numerous; but the steep streets are narrow
and, in wet weather, noisome, and the children do not look as healthy as
in many other places. During our stay we saw two funerals in the
_Colleggiata_ within a few hours, both attended by a red-robed
confraternity which included boys and men. The spectacle in the
darkening nave (for it was late afternoon) of the two rows of red-robed
figures holding lighted tapers, with two or three ensigns or symbols in
the background, was impressive, but marred by atrocious singing. The
officiating priest was a fine man; and, as the cortege departed to the
cemetery just below the church on the seaward side, there was an
impression of solemnity which is often lacking in English funerals. A
few late Venetian palaces, with fine loggias at the top to catch the
sea-breezes, show above the other houses, and the arch between the
fish-market an