e chercher
partout afin qu'il vous fasse ses hommages." The good man could not have
spoken of a favourite son with more unsuspecting complacency.
April 30.--To Saulieu, where we breakfasted at a tolerably good inn,
fifteen miles: the morning intensely cold, and one of those white frosts
on the ground, which so much endanger the vintage at this season. We
observed, however, no vineyards on the elevated ridge of country along
which we were travelling, and which was perfectly English. A respectable
old chateau, with a rookery, quick hedges, and extensive woods, thick
enough for a fox covert, kept up the illusion agreeably. This style of
ground continues beyond Saulieu; and between the latter place and Arnay
le Duc, eighteen miles farther, its features are not unromantic. One or
two castles of a very baronial air occur; the first of which, reduced to
ruins, is visible at about a mile beyond Saulieu, occupying an insulated
hill at some distance from the road, and much resembling the remains of
an Italian freebooter's stronghold. Another, situated at the head of a
glen, about six miles farther on, and overlooking a small village, is
more perfect and striking in its appearance. It is the property, as we
were informed, of the widow of M. Fenou, a royalist, who, during the
revolution, stood a siege within its walls equal to that of
Tillietudlem, repulsing a strong body of republicans with considerable
loss. Buonaparte subsequently recalled M. Fenou, with the grant of a
free pardon; and the estate was, in the course of things, restored to
his widow. Such, as far as we could collect from the account of our
informant, was the history belonging to Chateau Torcy la Vachere, which
bears some resemblance, in situation and general outline, to Eastnor
Castle, the seat of the Earl of Somers, at the foot of the Malvern
hills.
Arnay le Duc, a town situated on commanding ground, where we slept,
boasts of an earlier celebrity, having been the scene of one of Admiral
de Coligni's victories. It possesses several convents, now private
property, and one or two fragments of building of a peculiarly
antiquated style. Among these I particularly remarked an old iron-shop,
supposed, as a bourgeois informed me, to be more than seven hundred
years old, and which seems to have communicated with the ancient walls
as a guard-house. While busied in sketching this singular relic, we were
saluted gracefully by an old chevalier de St. Louis, who was passing
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