turret, about fifteen feet in
diameter, and opens into the shell of a large bedchamber. Its large
croisees, which look out in three directions, command an extensive
bird's eye view of the Comtat Grignan, surmounted by the long Alpine
ridge of Mont Ventou, and an amphitheatre of other smaller mountains:
and enough remained of both apartments to give a full idea of the
lightness and airiness of their situation, and of their former
magnificence.
The walls, on which some gilding still remained, the stone
window-frames, and the chimney-pieces, were still entire. From the door,
we looked out into the long gallery[20] built by the Count de Grignan,
and communicating with different suites of handsome rooms, or at least
their remains. We explored them as far as was consistent with safety,
and descended to the "belle terrasse," now over-run with weeds and
lizards, in order to take[21] another survey of the castle, and form a
general idea of the parts which we had separately visited. Though built
at different periods of time, each part is in itself regular and
handsome. The two grand fronts are the north and west, the former of
which is represented in Mr. Cooke's first engraving of Grignan. The
eastern part, facing Mont Ventou, is in a more ornamental style of
architecture, somewhat resembling that of the inside square of the
Louvre.[22] The southern part, affording a view of Mad. de Sevigne's
window, and of the collegiate church founded by the family, is
represented in the second engraving, the subject of which was sketched
on the road to La Palud, whither we were bound for the night. In our way
thither, we made a short detour, accompanied by our host, to the Roche
Courbiere, a natural excavation on the rock, within sight of the
terrace, and to the left of the road. This cool retreat, it may be
recollected, was discovered and chosen by Mad. de Sevigne, as a sort of
summer pavilion; and was embellished by the Count de Grignan with a
marble table, benches of stone, and a stone bason, which collected the
filterings of a spring that took its source from this cavern. I have
since seen a drawing made previous to the Revolution, which confirms
Peyrol's account. Even this modest hermitage, however, was not spared by
the systematic spite of the brigands who destroyed the castle. Only one
stone bench remains; the table and bason are demolished, and the spring
now oozes over the damp floor as it did in a state of nature. On
returning fro
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