and terminates in a massy gateway.
On entering the town, we were directed to the Bons Enfans, kept by a man
of the name of Peyrol; which, contrary to the expectations we had
naturally formed of an inn not much frequented, provided us with a
breakfast, which even the editor of honest Blackwood would delight to
describe in all its minutiae, for it was quite Scotch in variety and
excellence, and served up with great cleanliness. It may be well to
remark, that as far as I could judge from the appearance of the rooms, a
family might spend two or three days here without sacrificing their
comfort to their curiosity, and would be as well off as at the Quatre
Nations at Massa, or the Tre Maschere at Caffagiolo, the models of
little country inns. Our host, we found, was entrusted with the
privilege of showing the castle by the Count de Muy, in whose family he
had been a servant; and he accordingly accompanied us in our visit
thither. On gaining the level of the terrace, we found the wind, which
had been imperceptible in the town, blowing with such force, as to
account for[18] Mad. de Sevigne's fears lest her daughter should be
carried away from her "belle terrasse" by the force of the Bise. Persons
travelling to the south of France for the sake of health, should be
particularly on their guard against this violent and piercing wind, as
well as that called the Mistral; both of which are occasionally
prevalent in this country at most seasons of the year, and render warm
clothing adviseable. I shall quote, as illustrative of the power with
which the Bise blows, an extract from a letter by an intelligent
traveller, written previous to the destruction of Chateau Grignan: "En
faisant le tour du Chateau, je remarquais avec surprise que les vitres
du cote du nord etaient presque toutes brisees, tandis que celles des
autres faces etaient entieres. On me dit, que c'etait la Bise qui les
cassait; cela me parut incroyable; je parlai a d'autres personnes, qui
me firent la meme reponse: et je fus enfin force de le croire. La Bise y
souffle avec une telle violence, qu'elle enleve le gravier de la
terrasse, et le lance jusqu'au second etage, avec assez de force pour
casser les vitres." From the violence of the Bise wind this morning, and
my subsequent experience of its force at Beaucaire, I have but little
difficulty in believing this account; and conceive that the danger of
yielding to the occasional temptation of heat, and wearing light
clothi
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