nd walking back to Calais on foot." Young JERRYMAN is commenting on
the wonderful restoration that has taken place in the condition of the
Dilapidated One, who has just been detected having a row on the lake,
all by himself. Not that this is a very prodigious aquatic feat,
seeing that three or four good strokes either way take you either
into the bank, or on to the heels or tails of a couple of very
ill-tempered, and irascible swans, who appear to think, and with some
reason, that there's not too much waterway as it is, and resent the
intrusion of the boat on their domain as a ridiculous superfluity.
However, the effort is one that the Dilapidated One would not have
ventured on at his arrival a month since, and as our time is up, and
we are starting on our return journey home in about half-an-hour's
time, we hail it as an indication that if he has not quite obtained
the Perfect Cure, that his medical man promised him, as the result of
a trip to this delightful spot, he is certainly not far off it.

But the best things must come to an end, and so we find ourselves at
length, with much regret, taking our farewell of that excellent and
capitally-conducted "Perfect Kurhaus" the Hotel Titlis. And this
reminds me, that in justice to that establishment, I ought to state
that some comments I made last week on German feeding in general, in
no way were meant to refer to the _table d'hote_ at the Hotel Titlis,
which, served in a lofty and well-ventilated _salon_, lighted by
electricity, to four hundred people daily, a capitally well-appointed
meal, is one of the notable features of the place. The smoke-stifled
children of the Fatherland, who shut every window they come across
when they get a chance, though they would dearly like to, cannot carry
their tricks on here. Sometimes, but not very often, they rally in
force, and render the "_Grosser Gesellschafts Saal_" a sort of Tophet
to the ordinary Briton; but the "_Speise Saal_", where smoking is
"_verboten_," is happily beyond their reach. But the hour of departure
has come, and quitting his comfortable establishment with much regret,
we bid good-bye to the courteous Herr CATTANI, and with a crack of the
whip we are off, dashing down the valley, and leaving Engelberg up on
its heights as a pleasant dream behind us.

[Illustration: Putting Up for the Winter]

And what is Engelberg? There is, first and foremost, _par excellence_,
the feature of the place--the Hotel Titlis; then the