a pasha of considerable
reputation and influence.

[Illustration: A VILLAGE SCENE.]

We had intended, but not so soon, to pay an official visit to the Vali to
present our letter from the Grand Vizir, and to ask his permission to
proceed to Bayazid, whence we had planned to attempt the ascent of Mount
Ararat, an experience which will be described in the next chapter. A few
days before, we heard, a similar application had been made by an English
traveler from Bagdad, but owing to certain suspicions the permission was
refused. It was with no little concern, therefore, that we approached the
Vali's private office in company with his French interpreter.
Circumstances augured ill at the very start. The Vali was evidently in a
bad humor, for we overheard him storming in a high key at some one in the
room with him. As we passed under the heavy matted curtains the two
attendants who were holding them up cast a rather horrified glance at our
dusty shoes and unconventional costume. The Vali was sitting in a large
arm-chair in front of a very small desk, placed at the far end of a
vacant-looking room. After the usual salaams, he motioned to a seat on the
divan, and proceeded at once to examine our credentials while we sipped at
our coffee, and whiffed the small cigarettes which were immediately
served. This furnished the Vali an opportunity to regain his usual
composure. He was evidently an autocrat of the severest type; if we
pleased him, it would be all right; if we did not, it would be all wrong.
We showed him everything we had, from our Chinese passport to the little
photographic camera, and related some of the most amusing incidents of our
journey through his country. From the numerous questions he asked we felt
certain of his genuine interest, and were more than pleased to see an
occasional broad smile on his countenance. "Well," said he, as we rose to
take leave, "your passports will be ready any time after to-morrow; in the
mean time I shall be pleased to have your horses quartered and fed at
government expense." This was a big joke for a Turk, and assured us of his
good-will.

A bicycle exhibition which the Vali had requested was given the morning of
our departure for Bayazid, on a level stretch of road just outside the
city. Several missionaries and members of the consulates had gone out in
carriages, and formed a little group by themselves. We rode up with the
"stars and stripes" and "star and crescent" fluttering si