eturn to the Kurdish encampment by nightfall. Beyond us was a region of
snow and barren rocks, among which we still saw a small purple flower and
bunches of lichens, which grew more rare as we advanced. Our course
continued in a northeast direction, toward the main southeast ridge of the
mountain. Sometimes we were floundering with our heavy loads in the deep
snow-beds, or scrambling on hands and knees over the huge boulders of the
rocky seams. Two hours and a half of climbing brought us to the crest of
the main southeast ridge, about one thousand feet below the base of the
precipitous dome. At this point our course changed from northeast to
northwest, and continued so during the rest of the ascent. Little Ararat
was now in full view. We could even distinguish upon its northwest side a
deep-cut gorge, which was not visible before. Upon its smooth and perfect
slopes remained only the tatters of its last winter's garments. We could
also look far out over the Sardarbulakh ridge, which connects the two
Ararats, and on which the Cossacks are encamped. It was to them that the
mutessarif had desired us to go, but we had subsequently determined to
make the ascent directly from the Turkish side.

[Illustration: LITTLE ARARAT COMES INTO VIEW.]

Following up this southeast ridge we came at 5:45 P. M. to a point about
eleven thousand feet. Here the thermometer registered 39 deg. Fahrenheit, and
was constantly falling. If we should continue on, the cold during the
night, especially with our scanty clothing, would become intolerable; and
then, too, we could scarcely find a spot level enough to sleep on. We
therefore determined to stop here for the night, and to continue the
ascent at dawn. Some high, rugged crags on the ridge above us attracted
our attention as affording a comparatively protected lodging. Among these
we spread our carpet, and piled stones in the intervening spaces to form a
complete inclosure. Thus busily engaged, we failed for a time to realize
the grandeur of the situation. Over the vast and misty panorama that
spread out before us, the lingering rays of the setting sun shed a tinge
of gold, which was communicated to the snowy beds around us. Behind the
peak of Little Ararat a brilliant rainbow stretched in one grand archway
above the weeping clouds. But this was only one turn of nature's
kaleidoscope. The arch soon faded away, and the shadows lengthened and
deepened across the plain, and mingled, till all was los