caravansary they
shouted, "Faster, faster!" and when we began to distance them, they caught
at the rear wheels, and sent a shower of stones after us, denting our
helmets, and bruising our coatless backs. This was too much; we dismounted
and exhibited the ability to defend ourselves, whereupon they tumbled over
one another in their haste to get away. But they were at our wheels again
before we reached the caravansary. Here they surged through the narrow
gangway, and knocked over the fruit-stands of the bazaars.

We were shown to a room, or windowless cell, in the honeycomb structure
that surrounded an open quadrangular court, at the time filled with a
caravan of pilgrims, carrying triangular white and black flags, with the
Persian coat of arms, the same we have seen over many doorways in Persia
as warnings of the danger of trespassing upon the religious services held
within. The cadaverous stench revealed the presence of half-dried human
bones being carried by relatives and friends for interment in the sacred
"City of the Silent." Thus dead bodies, in loosely nailed boxes, are
always traveling from one end of Persia to the other. Among the pilgrims
were blue and green turbaned Saids, direct descendants of the Prophet, as
well as white-turbaned mollas. All were sitting about on the _sakoo_, or
raised platform, just finishing the evening meal. But presently one of the
mollas ascended the mound in the middle of the stable-yard, and in the
manner of the muezzin called to prayer. All kneeled, and bowed their heads
toward Mecca. Then the horses were saddled, the long, narrow boxes
attached upright to the pack-mules, and the _kajacas_, or double boxes,
adjusted on the backs of the horses of the ladies. Into these the veiled
creatures entered, and drew the curtains, while the men leaped into the
saddle at a signal, and, with the tri-cornered flag at their head, the
cavalcade moved out on its long night pilgrimage. We now learned that the
village contained a _chappar khan_, one of those places of rest which have
recently been provided for the use of foreigners and others, who travel
_chappar_, or by relays of post-horses. These structures are usually
distinguished by a single room built on the roof, and projecting some
distance over the eaves.

[Illustration: IN A PERSIAN GRAVEYARD.]

To this we repaired at once. Its keeper evinced unusual pride in the
cleanliness of his apartments, for we were asked to take off our shoes
bef