once with a
cheerful falsehood. "One farsak" (four miles), he replied, although he
must have known at the time that the village was already behind us. On we
pedaled at an increased rate, in order to precede, if possible, the
approaching darkness; for although traditionally the land of a double
dawn, Persia has only one twilight, and that closely merged into sunset
and darkness. One, two farsaks were placed behind us, and still there was
no sign of a human habitation. At length darkness fell; we were obliged to
dismount to feel our way. By the gradually rising ground, and the rocks,
we knew we were off the road. Dropping our wheels, we groped round on
hands and knees, to find, if possible, some trace of water. With a burning
thirst, a chilling atmosphere, and swarms of mosquitos biting through our
clothing, we could not sleep. A slight drizzle began to descend. During
our gloomy vigil we were glad to hear the sounds of a caravan, toward
which we groped our way, discerning, at length, a long line of camels
marching to the music of their lantern-bearing leader. When our
nickel-plated bars and white helmets flashed in the lantern-light, there
was a shriek, and the lantern fell to the ground. The rear-guard rushed to
the front with drawn weapons; but even they started back at the sound of
our voices, as we attempted in broken Turkish to reassure them.
Explanations were made, and the camels soon quieted. Thereupon we were
surrounded with lanterns and firebrands, while the remainder of the
caravan party was called to the front. Finally we moved on, walking side
by side with the lantern-bearing leader, who ran ahead now and then to
make sure of the road. The night was the blackest we had ever seen.
Suddenly one of the camels disappeared in a ditch, and rolled over with a
groan. Fortunately, no bones were broken, and the load was replaced. But
we were off the road, and a search was begun with lights to find the
beaten path. Footsore and hungry, with an almost intolerable thirst, we
trudged along till morning, to the ding-dong, ding-dong of the deep-toned
camel-bells. Finally we reached a sluggish river, but did not dare to
satisfy our thirst, except by washing out our mouths, and by taking
occasional swallows, with long intervals of rest, in one of which we fell
asleep from sheer exhaustion. When we awoke the midday sun was shining,
and a party of Persian travelers was bending over us.

From the high lands of Azerbeidjan, where,