idly recovered after every fresh disaster. It now does
considerable trade with Russia through the town of Chuguchak, and with
China through the great gap which here occurs in the Tian Shan range. It
lies in a picturesque amphitheater behind the solitary "Holy Mount," which
towers above a well-constructed bridge across its swiftly flowing river.
This city was one of our principal landmarks across the empire; a long
stage of the journey was here completed.

[Illustration: RIDING BEFORE THE GOVERNOR OF MANAS.]

On entering a Chinese city we always made it a rule to run rapidly through
until we came to an inn, and then lock up our wheels before the crowd
could collect. Urumtsi, however, was too large and intricate for such a
manoeuver. We were obliged to dismount in the principal thoroughfare. The
excited throng pressed in upon us. Among them was a Chinaman who could
talk a little Russian, and who undertook to direct us to a comfortable inn
at the far end of the city. This street parade gathered to the inn yard an
overwhelming mob, and announced to the whole community that "the foreign
horses" had come. It had been posted, we were told, a month before, that
"two people of the new world" were coming through on "strange iron
horses," and every one was requested not to molest them. By this, public
curiosity was raised to the highest pitch. When we returned from supper at
a neighboring restaurant, we were treated to a novel scene. The doors and
windows of our apartments had been blocked with boxes, bales of cotton,
and huge cart-wheels to keep out the irrepressible throng. Our host was
agitated to tears; he came out wringing his hands, and urging upon us that
any attempt on our part to enter would cause a rush that would break his
house down. We listened to his entreaties on the condition that we should
be allowed to mount to the roof with a ladder, to get away from the
annoying curiosity of the crowd. There we sat through the evening
twilight, while the crowd below, somewhat balked, but not discouraged,
stood taking in every move. Nightfall and a drizzling rain came at last to
our relief.

The next morning a squad of soldiers was despatched to raise the siege,
and at the same time presents began to arrive from the various officials,
from the Tsongtu, or viceroy, down to the superintendent of the local
prisons. The matter of how much to accept of a Chinese present, and how
much to pay for it, in the way of a tip to the beare