moon."

In one out-of-the-way village of northwestern China, we were evidently
taken for some species of centaurs; the people came up to examine us while
on the wheel to see whether or no rider and wheel were one. We became so
harassed with importunities to ride that we were compelled at last to seek
relief in subterfuge, for an absolute refusal, we found, was of no avail.
We would promise to ride for a certain sum of money, thinking thus to
throw the burden of refusal on themselves. But, nothing daunted, they
would pass round the hat. On several occasions, when told that eggs could
not be bought in the community, an offer of an exhibition would bring them
out by the dozen. In the same way we received presents of tea, and by this
means our cash expenses were considerably curtailed. The interest in the
"foreign horses" was sometimes so great as to stop business and even
amusements. A rather notable incident of this kind occurred on one of the
Chinese holidays. The flag-decked streets, as we rode through, were filled
with the neighboring peasantry, attracted by some traveling theatrical
troupe engaged for the occasion. In fact, a performance was just then in
progress at the open-air theater close at hand. Before we were aware of it
we had rolled into its crowded auditorium. The women were sitting on
improvised benches, fanning and gossiping, while the men stood about in
listless groups. But suddenly their attention was aroused by the counter
attraction, and a general rush followed, to the great detriment of the
temporary peddlers' stands erected for the occasion. Although entirely
deserted, and no doubt consumed with curiosity, the actors could not lose
what the Chinese call "face." They still continued their hideous noises,
pantomimes, and dialogues to the empty seats.

[Illustration: A CHINAMAN'S WHEELBARROW.]

The last fifty miles into Liang-chou, a city founded by a Catholic
Chinaman over two hundred years ago, we were compelled to make on foot,
owing to an accident that caused us serious trouble all through the
remainder of our Chinese journey. In a rapid descent by a narrow pathway,
the pedal of one of the machines struck upon a protuberance, concealed by
a tuft of grass, snapping off the axle, and scattering the ball-bearings
over the ground. For some miles we pushed along on the bare axle inverted
in the pedal-crank. But the wrenching the machine thus received soon began
to tell. With a sudden jolt on a steep