I be raised on a grain and stock ranch
where the only trees we could see were in the distant mountains, or, if
we rode in the canyons, cottonwoods and choke-cherries. My experience
and training was with animals, and animals, especially horses, seem
quite susceptible to accident. The first principle of treating almost
any wound is to give it drainage, otherwise, both literally and
figuratively, the "sap" soured. Thus it dawned on me that a tree-wound,
even if only skin deep should have the same treatment as a flesh wound.
And drainage, being desirable, should be ample.

It was quite late in the season but I went out and set a dozen Schafer
walnut buds on eastern black stocks. These buds HAD DRAINAGE. The
vertical cut of the T extended at least two inches below the bud.
Success ensued, they grew. The following spring we budded as soon as the
bark would slip and continued at intervals all summer. Results were
good. Some of the steps we now use are probably not essential and
perhaps not even the best, but there are two points that cannot be
over-emphasized, namely, drainage and contact. The complete method is as
follows: 1. Trim bud sticks to leave an inch of petiole on the bud. 2.
Make the T cut with a long vertical slash that will extend at least an
inch below the bottom of the bud. 3. Cut the bud long and deep and peel
it from the wood by pinching the sides. Be carefull not to injure the
bark just below the bud. 4. Insert the bud either flush with or below
the cross-cut. 5. Wrap with large sized rubber budding strips just
firmly enough to make good contact. Too tight wrappings curtail
circulation. Do not cover the cut below the bud. The wound must have
=drainage=. 6. Be sure that the center of the bud-cut is firm against the
cambium layer. If it humps of bows and won't stay down insert a
tooth-pick or bit of leaf stem or something along the center line to
hold it down. We usually do this during the wrapping process.

We use no wax. We throw a wrap over the bud, shoulders even though it
may press the petiole forward against the bud. If the center of the bud
pulls out it will not grow although an adventitious bud may eventually
start. Budding seems about equally successful any time that the bark
slips freely. On walnuts this is all summer if not too dry.

Early-placed buds may make several feet growth before fall if sufficient
moisture is available. On walnuts there are always dormant buds. We have
used storage wood but