iefly because of the
hideous images they contain; one of these has hundreds of these idols
and is hence known as the "Temple of the Five Hundred Genii."

[Illustration: ENTRANCE OF THE "TEMPLE OF THE FIVE HUNDRED GENII,"
CANTON.]

After visiting several of these temples and the picturesque flowery
pagoda we set out for the famous water clock that is said to have been
built more than thirteen hundred years ago. It is now located in a dark
little room in the top of an old house and is reached by a winding
flight of outside stone stairs. It consists of four large jars of water,
one above the other, so that the water may run slowly, at a definite
rate, from the upper to the lower jars, and gradually raise, in the
lowest jar, a float with an attached vertical scale that tells the time.
In the window visible from the street below signs are placed at
intervals that tell the time indicated by the clock.

From the water clock we visited the ancient "City of the Dead," a small
cemetery just outside one of the old city gates. These gates, some of
which are large and imposing, pierce the dilapidated wall at intervals.
The wall, about six miles in circumference, is surrounded by the remains
of a moat, now chiefly useful as an addition to the picturesque
landscape and as a breeding place for mosquitoes. The top of a city
gate, reached by a winding stone stairway from within, is a convenient
place from which to view the densely crowded roofs of the adjacent part
of the city.

[Illustration: THE FLOWERY PAGODA, CANTON.]

From the "City of the Dead" we made for the fairly wide street along the
river front; here we took rickishas, much to the relief of my tired
guide, to say nothing of my tired self, and were soon at the Canton
terminus of the K. & C. R. R. The station was thronged with people
waiting for the Kowloon express.

The road-bed of the K. & C. R. R. is excellent, and the cars and
engine, all of English make, made a very respectable appearance.

For nearly half of the distance to Kowloon I had my section of the one
first-class car to myself, as I was the only Caucasian on the train:
then an English civil engineer and his family came aboard and shared my
compartment for the rest of the way. The second-and third-class cars,
of which there were half a dozen or more, were crowded with natives,
with boxes and bundles of all sorts and sizes.

[Illustration: A CITY GATE AND PARTS OF THE WALL AND MOAT, AS SEEN FROM
THE "CITY