drawn by the slow-moving, long-horned _carabao_ or water buffalo, one of
the most characteristic animals of the islands. This beast is
well-named, since it delights to lie buried in a muddy pool of water,
with just its head above the surface. It may be seen in the larger
lakes, swimming or wading in the deeper waters at a distance from the
shore. In the cities it is a quiet, peaceful brute that one brushes
against without a thought, but in the country, where is browses in the
open fields, it behooves the white man to be very circumspect as he
passes in its neighborhood, for it seems to have an aversion to the
Caucasian race and will frequently charge in a very unpleasant, not to
say dangerous, way. It is said that the carabao never shows this
hostility toward the natives. A peculiarity of the law is such that
should a man shoot a dangerous carabao to protect his own life he would
have to pay for the animal he killed.

[Illustration: PART OF THE WALL OF THE WALLED CITY.

Seen from the outside.]

Of course for small amounts of freight, in Manila as in all places in
the Orient, the ubiquitous Chinese coolie is the usual means of
transportation, and with a huge load at each end of a bamboo pole across
his shoulder he shambles along with a curious gait, between a walk and a
run, that he seems capable of sustaining for an almost indefinite time.

[Illustration: PASIG RIVER, PART OF THE HARBOR OF MANILA.

Casco in right foreground, with matting roof.]

The "Chino" of course is the merchant of Manila as of all the cities of
this part of the world. The main shopping street, the Escolta, is fairly
lined with Chinese stores of all sorts, some of them quite extensive;
and some of the narrower side streets, in the same neighborhood, have
practically no other stores than those kept by the Chinese. It is
wonderfully interesting to wander about these narrow, winding streets,
and into the dark, sometimes ill-smelling stores, but one should early
learn the gentle art of "jewing down" the prices that are first asked
for goods that are offered for sale. The Oriental always asks much more
than he is willing or even eager to accept. You ask the price of a
garment, say, and are told "Two pesos": you shake your head and say "Too
much": "Peso and half" will then be tried: you again say "Too much" and
perhaps turn as though to leave the shop; "How much you give?" says the
crafty merchant; "One peso," perhaps you suggest; "Take it," says the