OF THE DEAD," CANTON.]

After making the run of about ninety miles in something less than three
hours we reached the ferry at Kowloon, and in a quarter of an hour more
we were again in Hongkong, as different from Canton as though it were on
the other side of the world instead of being only three hours away.

VIII. MEANDERINGS IN MODERN MANILA.

Manila, after twenty years of American control, is a fascinating mixture
of past and present; of romance and commercialism; of oriental ease and
occidental hustle.

Enter through one of the beautiful old city gates, say the Santa Lucia,
which bears the date 1781, and one finds himself in the old or walled
city, Intramuros, still very Spanish in its appearance, though the
government offices and other public buildings are here located. The
massive gray stone wall, started in the early part of the seventeenth
century, was originally surrounded by a moat, with drawbridges. It is
said that a very efficient American official once suggested the
desirability of having the wall whitewashed; fortunately his idea was
not carried out.

In contrast to the comparative quiet of the narrow streets of the
Intramuros the docks along the Pasig River, that flows through the heart
of the town, present a scene of bustle and confusion worthy of a city of
its size, some 300,000 inhabitants. Here may be seen vessels of all
sorts, from all parts of the world: steamships, junks, tugs, rowboats,
and _cascos_, the last being the name given the native barge for
carrying freight. The casco is covered by a roof of matting, made in
sliding sections, with a cabin in the stern where the family of the
owner lives.

While there is an excellent electric street railway system and plenty of
automobiles to be had, the common method of getting about is to 'phone
for, or to hail, a passing one-horse vehicle, of which there are three
distinct types charging different fares for the same service; the more
expensive vehicles are, however, more comfortable and have better
horses. Like the taxi-driver of New York or the rickisha-man of
Singapore the driver of the _caratella_ or _caramata_ will charge all
the traffic will bear, and it is well for the newcomer to inquire of an
old resident what the proper fare for a given distance is before
starting.

[Illustration: SANTA LUCIA GATE.

One of the entrances to the Walled City. Erected 1781.]

The typical vehicle for hauling freight is the low, two-wheeled cart,