sively for equestrians. Every man who can afford it
owns a saddle horse in this city, and the men are universally good
riders. The horses are broken to a certain easy gait called the _passo_,
a sort of half run, very easy for the rider, scarcely moving him in the
seat. These horses average about fifteen hands in height, and are taught
to stop, or turn back, at the least touch of the bit. They are both fast
and enduring, with plenty of spirit, and yet are perfectly tractable.
The enormous spurs worn by the riders, with rowels an inch long, are
more for show than for use. Mexican or Spanish ladies are hardly ever
seen on horseback, though both English and American ladies are often met
in the saddle, dashing gallantly through the throng upon the paseo at
the fashionable hour. Something of oriental exclusiveness and privacy is
observed by Mexican ladies of the upper class, who drive on the paseo
even in close carriages, not in open barouches, like those of European
cities. In shopping excursions they do not enter the stores; but the
goods are brought to the door of the vehicle, in which they retain
their seat while examining the articles which are offered. It is a
Sunday scene which we are describing; but it is all the gayer for that
reason. The pulque shops drive a lucrative business; the billiard
saloons are all open. Children ride hither and thither in little fancy
carriages drawn by goats; donkeys covered with glittering ornaments are
ridden by small boys, and led by their owners; clouds of highly-colored
toy balloons float in the air, tied to the wrists of itinerant venders;
gambling stands do much abound; while candy-sellers, with long white
aprons and snow-white paper caps, offer candy and preserved fruits on
all sides. The class of women whom we meet as pedestrians are quite
Parisian in the free use of rouge for lips and cheeks, not forgetting
indigo-blue with which to shade about their dreamy-looking eyes. Ladies
belonging to the aristocratic class are rarely, if ever, seen walking in
the streets. They only drive in the paseo. For a couple of hours in the
closing part of the day, the paseo is a bright, giddy, alluring scene. A
military band performs on Sundays, adding life and spirit to the
surroundings. The wholesome influence of these out-of-door concerts upon
the masses of the people is doubtless fully realized by the government.
A love of music is natural to all classes here. Groups of half-clothed
men and women,