gradually lessening in size until the top is reached. This is
surmounted by a gilt iron work or "ti" on which little bells are hung.
This "ti" was a gift from the late king of Burmah, who spent a quarter
of a million dollars on its decoration with gold and precious stones.
The mound on which the pagoda stands is divided into two rectangular
terraces. The upper terrace, nine hundred feet by six hundred and
eighty-five, is one hundred and sixty-six feet above the level of the
ground. The ascent is by three flights of brick stairs, the fourth
flight at the back being closed to permit of the building of
fortifications by which the English may defend the pagoda in any
emergency. The southern or main entrance is made conspicuous by two
enormous leogryphs, which are of plastered brick.

Up these steep stairs the visitor climbs, pestered by loathsome beggars
and importuned on every hand to buy relics, flowers and articles of gold
and silver. One would fancy he was in a great bazar rather than in the
entrance hall of the finest monument in the world erected in honor of
Buddha. The four chapels ranged around the rectangular terrace are
ornamented by figures of the sitting Buddha. Then one visits a score of
magnificently decorated shrines, in which are Buddhas in every variety
of position. In one is the reclining Gautama in alabaster, in whose
honor the pagoda was built. In others are Gautamas of brass, ivory,
glass, clay and wood. Before many of these shrines candles are burning
and devotees are seated or are praying with their faces bowed to the
stone pavement. On one side of the platform is a row of miniature
pagodas, all encrusted with decoration of gold and precious stones, the
gifts of thousands of pious devotees. Among these shrines are many small
bells which are rung by worshippers when they deposit their offerings,
and one great bell (the third largest in the world, weighing forty-two
and one-fourth tons), given by King Tharrawaddy.

The eyes of the visitor are wearied with the splendid decoration of the
chapels, the gilding, the carving, the inlaid glass work. It seems as
though there was no end to the rows on rows of Buddhas in every
conceivable position. Interspersed among them are tall poles from which
float long streamers of bamboo bearing painted historical pictures,
including those of the capture of the pagoda by the British. Thousands
crowd these platforms. Some offer gifts to various shrines, others say
prayer