e draws water from the wells for irrigation
just as his ancestors did three centuries ago. He uses bullocks on an
arastra that turns over a big wheel with a chain of buckets. On small
farms this work is done by men. All the processes of irrigation are
ancient and cumbersome and would not be tolerated for a day in any land
where labor is valuable.

Delhi is very rich in memorials of the Mogul conquerors. Near the Lahore
gate is the palace, one of the noblest remains of the Mohammedan period.
A vaulted arcade leads to the outer court, at one end of which is a
splendid band gallery, with a dado of red sandstone, finely carved. On
the farther side is the Dwan-i-'Am or Hall of Public Audience, with
noble arches and columns, at the back of which, in a raised recess, the
emperor sat on his peacock throne, formed of two peacocks, with bodies
and wings of solid gold inlaid with rubies, diamonds and emeralds. Over
it was a canopy of gold supported by twelve pillars, all richly
ornamented. This magnificent work was taken away by Nadir Pasha. The
palace contains many other beautiful rooms, among which may be mentioned
the royal apartments, with a marble channel in the floor, through which
rosewater flowed to the queen's dressing-room and bath.

The most notable mosque in Delhi is the Jama Mashid, built of red
sandstone and white marble. It has a noble entrance and a great
quadrangle, three hundred and twenty-five feet square, with a fountain
in the center. In a pavilion in one corner are relics of Mohammed, shown
with great apparent reverence to the skeptical tourist. Near by is the
Kalar Masjid or Black Mosque, built in the style of the early Arabian
architecture.

Eleven miles from Delhi are many tombs of the Mogul emperors, including
the Kutab Minar or great column of red sandstone, with a fine mosque
near at hand. Kutab was a viceroy when he began this splendid column,
two hundred and thirty-eight feet high, with a base diameter of
forty-seven feet three inches. The first three stories are of red
sandstone and the two upper stories are faced with white marble. The
summit, which is reached by three hundred and seventy-nine steps, gives
a superb view of the surrounding country, with its many fine Moslem
tombs.

On the way to the Kutab Minar a number of fine Mohammedan tombs are
passed, chief of which is the tomb of Emperor Humayan, one of the
greatest of the Moslem builders. Of all the buildings that I saw in
India this appr