of Delhi to the old city, eleven miles
distant, which was the capital of the Mogul emperors until Aurungzeb
moved it to Delhi. In a radius of fifteen miles from Delhi tombs and
palaces that cost hundreds of millions of rupees were built by these
Moslem despots and their viceroys. Most of them are now in ruins, but
from the top of the Kutab Minar one may count a score of tombs with
their domes and cupolas still intact. Into these tombs was poured much
of the treasure wrung from the poverty-stricken Hindoo tillers of the
soil.

Few sights in this world are more impressive than this birdseye view of
the remains of the Mogul emperors who ruled northern India for over
three centuries. In one of the poorest and the most densely populated
countries of the world these despots reared marvels of architecture
which have amazed modern experts. They accomplished these wonders in
stone mainly because, with power of life and death, they were able to
impress thousands of coolies and force them to rear the walls of their
palaces and tombs. Building materials were very cheap, so that most of
the treasure expended by these rulers went into the elaborate
ornamentation of walls and ceilings with precious stones and carved
ivory and marble. No description that I have ever read gives any
adequate idea of the number and the massiveness of these remains of
bygone imperial splendor, and this magnificence is made more impressive
by contrast with the squalid poverty of the common people--the tillers of
the soil, the drawers of water, who live in wretched huts, with earthen
floors, no windows and no comforts. These dwellings are crowded together
in small villages; the family cow or goat occupies a part of the
dwelling, a small fire gives warmth only to one standing directly over
it, and the smoke pours out the open door or filters through holes in
the thatched roof.

As the native lived three hundred years ago so does he live to-day. He
uses kerosene instead of the old nut or fish oil, but that is almost the
only change. In the cultivation of the soil and in all kinds of
manufacture the same methods are in use now as when Akbar wrested North
India from its Hindoo rulers. The same crude bullock carts carry produce
to Delhi, with wheels that have felloes a foot thick and only four
spokes. Many of these wheels have no tires. In some cases camels supply
the place of bullocks as beasts of burden, especially in the dry country
north of Delhi. The cooli