being particularly struck with the number and beauty of the
lotus, floating on the waters of the Ganges, as also with other flowers,
of scarlet, yellow, and white hues; while numberless others, of every
tint, garnished either bank of the stream.

A remarkable feature of the Ganges is the fine Ghauts, or
landing-places, one of which is to be found leading from the water even
to the smallest village. They consist of five flights of steps, either
of stone or _chunam_ highly polished; and have, besides being most
useful, a very handsome appearance. On either side are stone
balustrades, and sometimes beautiful temples, mosques, or pagodas,
according to the creed of the founders. At every time of the day, on
the Ghauts, may be seen groups of bathers; while graceful female forms
are continually passing and re-passing, loaded with water-pots, which
are balanced with the nicest precision on their heads.

As we proceed down the river an infinite variety of scenes meets our
sight--now overhanging cliffs, crowned by some beautiful Oriental
edifice; then green woods and fields, with quiet villages seen among
them; next a herd of buffaloes wallowing in the mud, their horns and the
tips of their noses alone out of the water, or, perhaps, their keepers
are about to drive them across the stream, for though fierce in
appearance, they are as tame as oxen. The herdsmen mount on the necks
of the strongest, and thus fearlessly stem the current, almost
completely immersed in the water. We saw wide pastures covered with
innumerable herds; forests, with their eternal shade; and indigo
plantations, in charge of Europeans. Sometimes a gigantic elephant was
observed under the shade of a tree, fanning off the flies with a branch
of palm; others were pacing along, decked in gaudy trappings, and
hearing their masters in howdahs through the fields or plantations.

The most elegant and picturesque buildings are the temples and
habitations of the Brahmins, in situations remote from the busy haunts
of men. Here the mistaken devotees of a barbarous faith spend their
time in weaving garlands for their altars, or to deck the rafts which
they commit to the holy stream.

Innumerable varieties of birds are seen, some flying in flocks, and
others stalking along the reedy shore.

After leaving these wild and picturesque scenes behind, one comes
suddenly upon one of the beautiful modern towns, built by the British,
on the banks of the river, filled wi