gigantic magnitude. Such was, the mighty stream on which the good ship
the _Governor Harcourt_ was now floating.
On its eastern bank stands Calcutta, the City of Palaces as it is often
called. My earliest recollections were of the clusters of columns, the
long colonnades, and lofty gateways of its magnificent mansions. The
residences are, for the most part, either entirely detached from each
other, or connected only by long ranges of terraces, surmounted, like
the flat roofs of the houses, with balustrades. The greater number of
the mansions have pillared verandahs, extending the whole way up,
sometimes to the height of three stories, besides a large portico in
front, the whole having a very picturesque appearance, especially when
intermingled with forest trees and flowering shrubs. The houses are
built of brick, covered with cement, which looks like stone and as even
the more ordinary buildings are spread over a considerable extent of
ground, they have a very imposing effect, unlike any inhabited by
persons of the same rank in England. But close even to the palaces of
the most wealthy are to be seen wretched mud huts; and rows of native
hovels, constructed of mats, thatch, and bamboos, often rest against
their outer walls, while there are avenues opening from the principal
streets, intersected in all directions by native bazaars, filled with
unsightly articles of every description.
Sir Charles Plowden lived in a very large house, and though his own
habits were very simple, the custom of the country required him to have
a large retinue of domestics. Thus I was brought up in almost barbaric
splendour, with a number of persons whose only business was to attend
upon my wishes. My kind guardian, whenever his public duties permitted,
had me with him, and himself superintended my education, which prevented
the ill effects of the indulgence I was allowed. A sitting-room in
India is very unlike one in England. The sofas, chairs, and tables are
placed at a foot distance from the wall, on account of the reptiles
which would otherwise find their way on to them. All the walls are
pierced with doors, through which are seen, like ghosts, the servants,
clad in flowing white garments, gliding about with noiseless feet in all
directions. None of the inferior domestics keep themselves, as in
England, in the background--the water-carrier alone confines his
perambulations to the back staircases; all the others, down to the
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