led there, chiefly Spaniards and
Italians. The former are to be found principally in the neighbourhood
of Oran, and the latter further east; they abound in Tunisia.
Englishmen and others of more independent nature have not been made
welcome in either country, and year by year their interests have
dwindled. Even in Tunisia, under a different system, the same result
has been achieved, and every restriction reconcilable with paper
rights has been placed on other than French imports. There may be an
"open door," but it is too closely guarded for us. The English houses
that once existed have disappeared, and what business is done with
this country has had to take refuge with agents, for the most part
Jews.

In studying the life of Algerian towns, the almost entire absence of
well-to-do Arabs or Berbers is striking. I never came across one who
might be judged from his appearance to be a man of means or position,
unless in military or official garb, though there are doubtless many
independent natives among the Berber and Arab tribes. The few whom I
encountered making any pretence of dressing well were evidently of no
social rank, and the complaint on every hand is that the natives are
being gradually ousted from what little is left to them.

As for European law, they consider this to have no connection
with justice, and think themselves very heavily taxed to support
innovations with which they have no concern, and which they would
rather dispense with. One can, indeed, feel for them, though there
is no doubt much to be said on both sides, especially when it is the
other side which boasts the power, if not the superior intelligence.
The Jews, however, thrive, and in many ways have the upper hand,
especially so since the wise move which accorded them the rights
of French citizenship. It is remarkable, however, how much less
conspicuous they are in the groups about the streets than in Morocco,
notwithstanding that their dress is quite as distinctive as there,
though different.

The new-comer who arrives at the fine port of Algiers finds it
as greatly transformed as its name has been from the town which
originally bore it, El Jazirah. The fine appearance of the rising
tiers of houses gives an impression of a still larger city than it
really is, for very little is hidden from view except the suburbs.
From a short way out to sea the panorama is grand, but it cannot be
as chaste as when the native city clustered in the hollow wit