e music was identical with what we know in
the "Far West." Religious strictness is much less than in Morocco,
the use of intoxicants being fairly general in the town, the hours
of prayer less strictly kept, and the objection to portraits having
vanished. There seemed fewer women in the streets than in Morocco, but
those who did appear were for the most part less covered up; there
was nothing new in the way the native women were veiled, only one eye
being shown--I do not now take the foreign Turks into account.

In the streets the absence of the better-class natives is most
noticeable; one sees at once that Tripoli is not an aristocratic town
like Fez, Tetuan, or Rabat. The differences which exist between the
costumes observed and those of Morocco are almost entirely confined
to the upper classes. The poor and the country people would be
undistinguishable in a Moorish crowd. Among the townsfolk stockings
and European shoes are common, but there are no native slippers to
equal those of Morocco, and yellow ones are rare. I saw no natives
riding in the town; though in the country it must be more common.
The scarcity of four-footed beasts of burden is noticeable after the
crowded Moorish thoroughfares.

On the whole there is a great lack of the picturesque in the Tripoli
streets, and also of noise. The street cries are poor, being chiefly
those of vegetable hawkers, and one misses the striking figure of the
water-seller, with his tinkling bell and his cry.

The houses and shops are much like those of Morocco, so far as
exteriors go, and so are the interiors of houses occupied by
Europeans. The only native house to which I was able to gain access
was furnished in the worst possible mixture of European and native
styles to be found in many Jewish houses in Morocco, but from what I
gleaned from others this was no exception to the rule.

Unfortunately the number of grog-shops is unduly large, with all
their attendant evils. The wheeled vehicles being foreign, claim
no description, though the quaintness of the public ones is great.
Palmetto being unknown, the all-pervading halfah fibre takes its place
for baskets, ropes, etc. The public ovens are very numerous, and do
not differ greatly from the Moorish, except in being more open to the
street. The bread is much less tempting; baked in small round cakes,
varnished, made yellow with saffron, and sprinkled with gingelly seed.
Most of the beef going alive to Malta, mutton is the