next morning, on rising, we felt the dream of many years was at last
realized!

"Thou art truly a world, O Rome!" says Goethe; and we indeed felt it so,
as, having breakfasted, we sallied forth, eager to begin our
explorations. Our first visit was naturally to the English bookseller's,
where we purchased a guide-book. A plan of Rome may always be obtained
at one's hotel, and it is well to study the streets, etc., and arrange
one's campaign of sight-seeing. A good way is to begin by visiting the
nearest objects of interest, which can be accomplished on foot; then to
make use of the omnibus; and finally, of the carriages, for more distant
places outside the walls. These latter are cheap enough, as you may
drive from one end of Rome to the other for a franc.

The Corso, the main street in the city, is very narrow, and about a mile
in length. Starting from the Piazza del Popolo, it extends to the foot
of the Capitol. Most of the shops are situated here, and when lined with
fashionable carriages, it is very crowded, particularly just outside the
_cafes_. The other principal thoroughfares are the Strada del Babbuina,
ending in the Piazza di Spagna; and the Strada di Ripetta, leading to
the Tiber. Most of the streets converge into the Piazza di Venezia,
where is situated the tramway station, from which omnibuses run to all
parts of the town. This corner of the city is usually known as the
"Stranger's Quarter." Groups of military men were lounging about, and
blocking the pavements, characteristically indulging in _dolce far
niente_ aided by the eternal cigarette; indeed, the whole population
appear to smoke all day long; both wine and tobacco being too cheap and
plentiful for the good of the people.

I believe there are very few _good_ guides in Rome--few at least who do
their duty conscientiously, and with interest, but all asking some
twelve francs a day, just to ride about with you and smoke innumerable
cigarettes. A really good guide is worth securing, and saves much time,
trouble, and expense, besides giving most valuable information
sometimes. On the first day, we were lucky enough to pick up one of the
right sort, with a toga, cloak, and Roman profile; but unfortunately his
pronunciation of English was such a jargon we were quite unable to make
head or tail of it, especially when most eager to obtain some
information of interest, which he was willing and even anxious to
convey.

He took us to the top of the Capitol-